Fistral Beach: A Remarkable Photography Hike in Cornwall

It’s not quite the furthest point southwest, but it misses the mark by just over forty miles. Our journey from the New Forest to Fistral Beach (for a family break plus some photography), is a modest 186 miles, is expected to take just under four hours — longer if we hit traffic, shorter if we rush.

But we won’t. This is a road trip that deserves to be taken slowly.

Newquay (on the north coast of Cornwall) embodies that laid-back, easygoing spirit. Beachside bars look out over Fistral Beach, where there always seems to be at least one surfer in the water. In the mornings, they appear as scattered silhouettes; by afternoon, the rolling waves are peppered with tiny black dots, each clinging to a board of some kind.

The hardcore surfers paddle for what feels like forever — twenty minutes or more — to reach the point of return. The bodyboarders, far less. Yet both chase the same thrill, surrendering to the rhythm of the sea, each in their own way.

I am not heading for the surf, or even the beach specifically. With my family, we are off on a short break. However, as with most places I visit, my camera is along for the trip. I set out with no real agenda, which is the kind of photography I enjoy. My aim is simple. To document the sights, and the essence of one of the UK’s most popular beaches.

Fistral Beach Photography Walk

Wandering, camera in hand, looking for those fleeting storytelling moments. One of my favourite past times. Our hike starts at the southern end of Fistral Beach. A short walk through the streets and the single-track lane points skyward as we trudge uphill. The residents to our left have to endure this walk daily. But they also get to enjoy the far-reaching views over the Gannel Estuary to Crantock Bay and beyond.

At the bend in the road, a sign points us left, as the tarmac underfoot turns into mud, and we join the South West Coast Path overlooking the Estuary. Now without the shelter of buildings, the strong winds whip in from the sea. After the fourth time of chasing my cap across the clifftop, I decide that pocketing it is best if I ever want to wear it again.

We carried on armed with raincoats and positivity

The wind and looming clouds do not deter us, and we soon find ourselves on the Pentire Headland.

A bench, bolted to its concrete plinth overlooks Goose Rock. The dark sea stack struggles to keep its tip above water and the wind-assisted waves wash over it as if it were a pebble on the sandy beach.

The walk to Pentire Headland has minimal photo opportunities—the walk back down the other side however, is quite the opposite. Fistral Bay stretches out below, and there are opportunities aplenty. The sun tries to pierce the heavy clouds. It barely succeeds in illuminating the headland on the north side of the bay.

The Old Lifeboat House, a small white cube of a building, sits alone. The weak sun rays manage to light it up on the dark rock upon which it sits. 

Don’t forget to look back

For some reason, I glance over my shoulder, one of my better decisions. The sun works hard over the last few minutes and casts its mid-morning glow over the headland and Lewinnick Lodge. I love photos like these. The cliff top and the hotel sit bright, vivid, full of contrast. Behind, the sky and horizon fall away in a muddled cloak of smooth grey.

The wind has abated slightly, and I divert a few feet from the main path to enjoy the views with less obstruction. A dip in a boundary fence gives me the perfect opportunity to frame up a shot of the majestic Headland Hotel.

It commands attention as it overlooks Fistral Bay and Beach, and it gets mine.

The path starts to bend around the bay. Several things are attention-grabbing. A lone, what I think is a fisherman, stands on the rocks. More interested in his line than the bobbing surfers waiting for the next wave. One surfer has success, his red board glowing as if alight, as he pounds towards the shore.

The black dots of wetsuits contrast against the white, frothy waves.

At the same time, the less adventurous trudge along the beach enjoying the sea from a different perspective.

A little further, and a scramble down a sandbank, and we join those wandering the beach. Rain threatens, and arcing out of the sea forms a rainbow, perfectly framing the vibrant green of the land that upon it sits the Headland Hotel. The threat of rain and a little patience gets me this clean photograph.

The Towan Headland overlooking Fistral Beach

The beach turns into the headland quickly, and we soon pass various restaurants and shops selling their wares. Clothing, food, and as you would expect, surfing gear are all on offer. After a cold IPA, and an unhealthy, but much needed snack in Boardmasters Beach Bar, we set off to tackle the next part.

We rejoin the South West Coast Path. To our left and down, the waves crash into the rocks. A dad stoops and shelters his young children.

Unsurprisingly, the wind picks up and the baseball cap battles resume once more. We pass the Old Lifeboat House I mention earlier in the story. However, I stand corrected — it is a dirty, murky yellow now, not the bright white I described earlier. The local artist who makes good use of it does not seem to care though.

The wind whips around our ears as we climb the headland to the Huer’s Hut. With its elevated position, and no doubt good eyesight, in days gone by, the huer has the perfect vantage point to guide the boats towards any shoals of pilchards that may dare to venture past.

These days, though, the vantage point is all about enjoying the surroundings, and witnessing Mother Nature at work.

My attention then turns to the Huer’s Hut. A technique in photography is where you can use your natural environment to frame your subject. 

The ornate door and windows in the Huer’s Hut are perfect for this. Looking back through the door of the small hut, and you are presented with a perfect view of the Headland Hotel. Through one of the windows, the afternoon sun casts its mild warmth over the Pentire Headland.

Goose Rock is barely visible through the sea mist on the horizon.

Back along the Beach, and more photo opportunities

Our insatiable appetite for crashing waves now satisfied, it is time to leave the headland and its huts behind, but not before I capture the biggest wave of our visit.

With Mother Nature’s dominant force fresh in our minds we turn and start heading back along the footpath. The winter sun casts a romantic glow over the Headland Hotel. 

I assure you, this article does not mean to be a homage to this hotel. It is just very hard to ignore its presence as it stands regally over the beach.

As this enjoyable, mildly challenging walk approaches its climax, I look back along the beach we walked earlier. Pockets of people remain, but the sand is definitely less populated than it was.

A lone man walks towards the waves. Hard to say, but from my vantage point, he looks to be armed with a single fishing rod. I know nothing about angling, but this man has, as far as I can tell, two options. Get wet or fish in vain in knee-deep water. 

If I were him, I would choose neither. I choose a route back along the beach that affords us higher views above it. And I am glad I do, as it presents me with a couple of final shots of contrasting past times.

A gaggle of surfers and bodyboarders, backs to the beach, start their wade out to sea. Just a few minutes later, further up the beach, two people amble along in isolation. Surfing may be the furthest thing from their mind.

Capturing the essence of Fistral Beach

I say at the start of this piece, I wanted to capture the essence of this place. The feeling, the atmosphere. The sights and the story. I will let you decide if I have managed that, but there is one thing I am certain of.

I am immensely happy with most of the photos, and shots like this, for me, just make me want to get out and capture the essence of another place.

Thanks for reading….

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means we will earn a small commission on the products or services you purchase using the links. There is no additional cost to you and if you do purchase, then I thank you for supporting the website. 

(This walk was part of a larger war from AllTrails. You can find the full walk here.)