Beaulieu to Buckler’s Hard Walk: A Beautiful Photography Escape

Here I am again, venturing out on a photo walk, in the harsh mid-morning sun, with the full expectation of getting some good photos. Will I ever learn! I have no idea why this walk from Beaulieu to Buckler’s Hard is different from any previous hikes. My Knightwood Oak hike and my Lyndhurst adventure all present ‘contrasting’ challenges.

And when I say contrasting, I am of course referring to the lighting conditions. The full sun sits high in the sky. Its rays blasting intense light on everything they touch. Coupled with the intense sun, come harsh shadows and therefore intense contrast. 

However, I look at it this way. If I can muster at least one photo I am happy with, in these conditions, then the time spent has to be worthwhile, don’t you think?

Starting the walk from Beaulieu’s Montague Arms hotel

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Before I set off, here is the walk on AllTrails if you are interested in doing it.

I start the walk from Beaulieu’s Montague Arms Hotel, the day already feels alive — the air is sharp with sunlight, and the quiet hum of the village and its road noise begins to fade behind me as I set off.

And let’s remember, this isn’t just about getting photographs. It is about getting out. The fresh air and the exercise. The photography is a love of mine that I can incorporate into something that is actually good for me.

I park along the high street — it saves money, though not time or distance. Alternatively, you can choose the car park that’s close by. (Car Park entrance: https://w3w.co/presume.field.magnitude). Me being me, I choose the cheap option and I take one of the many spaces that are free at the far end of the pretty high street.

A walk back takes me past a footpath that, if you weren’t looking for it, could easily be missed. This cuts in between the pretty terraced dwellings, and past a school playground before joining the start of the trail. 

However, to extend the walk by a couple of hundred yards you can bypass this, and continue down the high street to the village’s only pub/hotel/restaurant all rolled into one, the Montague Arms.

One thing that does stand out in this street full of charm, are the common red doors. A visual cue indicating that a cottage or building is still part of the historic Beaulieu Estate. 

On the Trail at last

Underwhelming is, admittedly, the first word that springs to mind as the walk along the Beaulieu to Buckler’s Hard trail begins. Essentially a track with a couple of fields either side and you can be fooled into thinking there are better places to walk in the New Forest.

But it is worth persevering. Within 20 minutes there comes the opportunity for a change of scenery. Called the North loop, presumably due to the fact it lies further North on the river than the south loop, there is the first chance to divert from the main path.

Through the creaky gate, and over a wooden boardwalk and you eventually see the Beaulieu River come into sight. I snap a couple of shots before this point, but nothing I’m truly happy with. The fallen tree branch, the marsh-like grass leading to a boat moored up in the shallow water gives me my first photo I am willing to keep.

I stand still for a few minutes. Other than the sound of birds, and the gentle breeze, I could have believed I am the only person there. A distant sound of a dog barking reminds me I am not.

The path continues south along the riverside, creeping inland slightly. More opportunities present themselves.

Some favourite photos

A single golden leaf, stands out against its healthier cousins, and the rustic bark behind.

A sunlit path leads to a cluster of trunks, and golden leaves stand out on the glistening muddy path. This area feels alive, pulsing with colour despite the unforgiving sun.

Eventually, the route winds back to the riverside views. Nine boats are moored up, stretching north to south along the river. This calls for a panorama, and thirteen images later, I have one photo of them all. Where the owners and ‘captains’ of these small white boats are is unknown.

Another gate, and the detour emerges onto the main path. Almost as quickly, we come across the south loop. This riverside detour is similar, but with differing views and photo opportunities.

Another wooden boardwalk paves the way, winding between a mixture of trees making full use of the green, yellow and orange colour spectrum. Occasionally, gnarly dead trunks punctuate the rich colours.

Arriving at Buckler’s Hard

After a 5 minute break on a perfectly placed bench for viewing more of the white bobbing vessels, I set off to embark on the final leg of the walk, and while Beaulieu seems an age away, within 20 minutes the Welcome to Buckler’s Hard sign greets me.

Rich blues and reds are dotted in amongst the predominantly white boats. An old wooden structure with a blue-green canvas roof stands locked up. There is no indication as to the purpose this building serves.

Working vessels chug along the river, their rough engines filling the air with sounds and smells.

Further along, sits The Boat Shed. Capitalisation allowed here, as the sign above the door shows off its name.

Stretching up a gentle hill away to the right takes you through the main hub of Buckler’s Hard. Rows of identical looking edifices stretch away. I am unsure of what is inside all but one of them.

A small blue sign with ‘Henry’s Pub’ above the bright red door highlights its purpose.

A History Lesson at Buckler’s Hard

Perched alone on a grassy slope sits a barn-type building. I am unsure as to its permanent purpose, but for now, it displays a presentation and signs indicating an exhibit all about the HMS Agamemnon.

Post trip research tells me the following

“HMS Agamemnon, Nelson’s favouseljrite warship, was built and launched at Buckler’s Hard in 1781. The historic shipyard is the site of the ship’s construction, and a recent archaeological excavation has fully revealed an 18th-century slipway where it and other ships for Nelson’s fleet were built. An exhibition dedicated to the ship, “HMS Agamemnon – Navigating the Legend,” is currently at the Shipwrights Workshop at the Buckler’s Hard Museum.”

Reading that later, I’m amazed to think these tranquil banks once rang with the clang of hammers and the rhythm of shipbuilding — history hidden beneath the soft rustle of leaves.

Beaulieu to Buckler’s Hard Walk – My Thoughts

I start this article with a little bit of self-deprecation. Complaining about my choices in an attempt to get nice photos in harsh sunlight. Well, for me, it turns out okay. I’ve enjoyed the walk, I like (most of) the photos, and below, is my favourite of the day.

I learn two things today. The first is the HMS Agamemnon was built and launched at Buckler’s Hard. The second, is even if the weather isn’t ideal, it shouldn’t stop me at least enjoying the outdoors with my camera.

And maybe, that’s the quiet victory of days like this — not the perfect photo, but the simple pleasure of being out there to take it.

Thanks for reading, see you next time.